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HE old and restored halls of Lancashire are numerous, and some are highly
picturesque, especially the half timbered houses. In many of the ancient
dwellings a secret chamber is to be found, for Lancashire was long faithful
to the Roman Catholic ritual and doctrine, and no doubt priests were often
concealed in these apartments. They may also have concealed fugitive Cavaliers.
Still, the chamber is generally called the "priest's chamber." They were
usually built in the great chimney-stacks, and communicated with the chamber
of the master of the house, food being supplied by sliding panels between
the rooms. These "priests' holes" may be still found at Speke, Lydiate, Widnes,
and Stonyhurst, and in an old house at Goosenargh, in the centre wall of
which there are two, the wall being four feet thick. In a secret chamber
at Mains Hall Cardinal Allen is said to have been once confined and concealed.
Speke Hall, the oldest hall in South Lancashire, is a black and
white half-timbered house, and is extremely picturesque. It is situated on
the margin of the estuary of the Mersey, with an approach from the water's
edge by an avenue of trees. The foundations of Speke are of solid masonry;
the house itself is constructed on a framework of immensely strong timbers,
vertical and horizontal, with diagonal bracings of oak, the interstices filled
in with laths covered by a composition or cement of lime and clay.
The house was surrounded by a moat originally, of which but the
trace remains, and a bridge over it conducts us to the principal entrance.
On the lower edge of the window in front of the porch is an inscription carved
in antique letters:-
"This worke twenty-five yards long was wolly built by Edw. N. Esq.
Anno 1598." That is, by Edward Norreys, for the Norreyses then possessed
the property.
In the centre of the large square court are two large yew-trees,
and over the moat is a fine weeping-willow. At each angle of the southern
wall, within the court, are two large corbelled windows, one of which lights
the great hall, a large and lofty apartment. Against the north wall of the
hall is the wainscot brought by Sir William Norreys from Holyrood. It is
perpendicularly divided into eight compartments, that are again divided into
five rows of panels; four of these panels contain each a grotesque but beautifully
carved head, surrounded by mantling. The second row of panels contains, in
detached portions, this inscription:-
Below these are three more rows, ornamented with carvings.
Over the mantelpiece of the dining-room is a carved pedigree in
oak of three generations of the Norreyses; but it is now much decayed.
These panels were spoil from the battle of Flodden Field. Sir William
Norreys, in reward of his valour in that fatal fight, was allowed by Surrey
to take whatever he pleased from the unhappy James IV.'s palace. Over the
door is another of these black-letter inscriptions:-
The Norreys family possessed Speke till the male line became extinct,
and was succeeded by Mary Norreys, Thomas Norreys's daughter, who in 1736
married Lord Sidney Beauclerk, fifth son of Charles, first Duke of St. Alban's.
Their son was Topham Beauclerk, immortalised (by his friendship with Johnson
and Reynolds) in Boswell's "Life of Johnson." He married in 1763 Lady Diana
Spencer, the divorced wife of Lord Bolingbroke. He died without family, having
dismembered the estates, and Speke Hall was sold to Richard Watt, Esq., who
had risen by his own industry from a stableboy at Liverpool. He went to the
West Indies, made a good deal of money, and became a rich merchant of Liverpool.
Speke Hall is now in trust for a lady who is his collateral descendant.
Mosleys, in Leigh parish, has a love romance connected with it.
Sir Thomas Leyland, of Mosleys, had an only daughter and heiress, named Anne.
This young lady, tradition tells us, formed an attachment to Edward Tildesley,
of Wardlaw, but her father, who was either on ill terms with that family,
or had other views for his heiress, shut her up in her own room to prevent
the lovers meeting: Mistress Anne, however, had managed to procure a rope,
and her lover was watching on the other side of the moat. She boldly threw
him one end of the rope, and tied the other round her waist. The water of
the moat was thirty feet deep, so she must have had some means of conveying
the rope across it better than a woman's proverbially bad throwing; it might
possibly have been sent by an arrow, for our story is of Elizabeth's reign. However
it was managed, the end of the rope reached young Edward, and then the girl
bravely leaped out of the window into the water, and he dragged her to land.
Horses were waiting. They rode swiftly away, and were married before the
flight of the maiden was discovered. This adventure dates in 1560. She was
pardoned, and brought her inheritance to the Tildesleys.
The Leyland family also produced a more than centenarian. "In 1732,"
says Holland Watson, "died at Lingnasken, in Ireland, Mr. William Leyland,
aged 139 and upwards (descended perhaps from the Leylands of Mosleys). He
was a tall and prodigiously large-boned man, and so strong and healthy that
he never was sick, nor did he lose his sight, limb, or digestive quality
until death, a short time before which he gave the following account of himself:
that he was born at Warrington in 1593, that he remembered the coronation
of James I. in 1602, that he lived in Warrington till 1664, and then went
to Ireland, where he lived ever since in good credit in the county of Fermanagh"
(History of Lancashire and MSS.).
Hoghton Tower, near Preston, stands in a strikingly picturesque
situation, scarcely inferior to any of the best placed of our castles, and
worthy of comparison with many of them.
Thomas Hoghton, in the reign of Elizabeth, built it from the stone
of a quarry he possessed in the park. Dr. Kuerden says:-
"This tower was built in Queen Elizabeth's reign by one, Thomas
Houghton, who translated this manor house, formerly placed below the hill,
nere unto the water side. Betwixt the inward square court and the second
was a very tall, strong tower or gatehouse which in the late and unhappy
civil wars was accidentally blown up by powder, with some adjacent buildings,
after the surrender thereof, and one, Captain Starky, with 200 soldiers,
was killed in that blast most wofully. The outward (wall) is defended with
two lesser bastions upon the south-west and north-west corners, besides another
placed in the midst betwixt them, now serving for an outer gate-house. This
stately fabrick is environed with a most spacious park, which in former time
was so full of tymber that a man passing through it could scarce have seen
the sun shine at middle of day; but of later days most of it has been destroyed. It
was much replenished with wild beasts, as with boars and bulls of a white
and spangled colour, and red deer in great plenty."
At Hoghton Manor James I., in his journey from Edinburgh to London,
spent three days, and was magnificently entertained by Sir Richard Hoghton.
There is an old tradition that while here, King James, who bestowed
honours with absurd profusion on that eventful journey, being struck by a
magnificent joint of beef - the loin - dubbed it Sir-loin, as it is called
to this day.
Hoghton Tower still shows clear traces of its original strength
and grandeur. Standing in isolated majesty on the rocky hanks of the Darwen,
we see what it must have been, and how nobly it was placed. The western front
has three stately towers; the centre one battlemented, and with indented
windows; and at the entrance arch that leads to the outer court is the statue
of a knight slaying a griffin. The outer court is of great space, to the
inner we approach by a fine flight of steps. The tower contains grand staircases,
galleries, and many apartments. The chamber called James I.'s is richly wainscoted.
His visit here is the subject of one of Cattermole's best pictures, now in
the possession of Mr. John Hargreaves, Rock Ferry.
The buildings on each side of the entrance are ornamented with mouldings,
fillets, balls, and mullioned windows.
The great hall is lighted by high and large mullioned windows; the
music gallery at one end remains, and the fire-place. All the upstair rooms
are wainscoted; one is called the guinea room - gilt circles abounding in
the pattern in which the panels are painted - but the rooms are fast decaying,
and becoming ruinous. The landscape seen from the tower is strikingly beautiful;
extending over the rocky scenery of the Danven.
The founder of this beautiful tower was an exile in Elizabeth's
reign, perhaps, soon after he had erected his stately home, for conscience
sake.
He was a devout Catholic, and refused to comply with some of the
requirements of the Protestant Government; he was obliged, consequently,
to abandon his native country and find a refuge on the continent, and died,
an exile, at Liege, in 1580. His banishment was the theme of the old ballad,
"The Blessed Conscience."
A tragic story belongs to Blackburn Parish. In the second year of
King James, a gardener, named John Waters, of Lower Darwen, was often absent
from his home on account of distant employment. His rather long absence,
therefore, did not arouse much surprise or anxiety; but when he did not return
after weeks had passed away, and his wife was often in the company of Giles
Haworth, a neighbour, suspicion became awakened, and the matter was talked
over by the people. Then a man, named Thomas Haworth, a yeoman of the place,
began to be tormented by horrid dreams of the murder, and told his wife of
them; but she entreated him not to mention them, as they could mean nothing:
however, every day, as he had to pass Waters's house on his way to his fields,
he called regularly at the door to ask if his friend had returned. One day
he found Mrs. Waters out, but seeing people in the room he went in as usual
to ask if any thing had been heard of John Waters. He found a neighbour there
and the constable, Myles Aspinall; in answer to his inquiry the neighbour
pointed to the hearth-stone, and said, "People say that Waters lies under
this stone." And Thomas Haworth then replied, "I have dreamed night after
night that he is under a stone, but not there." The constable at once asked
him to tell his dreams, and Thomas, who was actually made unhappy and ill
by their nightly recurrence, answered, "I dream every night that he is murdered,
and buried under a stone in the cowhouse." The constable said, "There can
be no harm in searching there." They went out at once to the spot, and disinterred
the poor gardener's body, which had lain there eight weeks. Giles Haworth
fled the moment he heard that Ann Waters had been arrested, and a man, named
Ribchester, fled with him. The woman was tried and confessed the crime. She
said that she and Giles had hired Ribchester to kill her husband, but that
when the hired assassin saw the poor man sleeping peacefully between his
two baby children his heart failed him, and he refused to harm him. Giles,
very angry, seized an axe and dashed out Waters's brains, and they buried
him in the cowhouse. The actual culprit never returned, nor was it known
what had become of him, nor did Ribchester return. Ann Waters was found guilty
on her own confession., and was burned, according to the then existing law,
for the murder of her husband.
The Hall i' the Wood is a most interesting place. It was so called
because hidden in the centre of a forest; it is built on the brow of a high
precipitous cliff; at the foot of which flows the little river Eagley. Hall
i' th' Wood might have been the home of some Lancashire franklin or country
gentleman. Its large lay window belongs to the age of its erection. In the
room of the house that has this remarkable window, Crompton invented his
cotton machine.
Clitheroe Castle consists now only of the keep and a portion of
the outer wall, but it has a singular situation. It stands on a huge limestone
crag rising out of a great plain which extends to the west from the foot
of Pendle.
The chief builders of Clitheroe were probably the De Lacys, but
there was never any important family dwelling here. The walls of Clitheroe
are ten feet thick. The chapel has long disappeared, its ruins being probably
used for building the huts and cottages of the neighbouring villages.
Lancaster Castle is supposed, from the Roman antiquities discovered
there, to have been a Roman station. It was dismantled by the Picts after
the Romans had left Britain, but was restored by the angloSaxons of Northumbria,
under whom it first gave name to the shire. The town of Lancaster received
a charter from King John, The castle was enlarged, almost rebuilt, by Edward
III., who conferred the Duchy of Lancashire on his son, John of Gaunt, in
whose favour he made the county again a Palatinate. Henceforth the castle
was connected with the famous man who supported Wicliffe, and who was great
in war and peace, "time honoured Lancaster." It was a strong and stately
castle, commanding views of the sea, and we may imagine the splendour of
its rooms when the great Plantagenet Prince dwelt in it.
The town of Lancaster stands on the slope of an eminence rising
from the river Lune, and the summit of this eminence is crowned by the castle,
which, with the church beside it, is highly picturesque from the bridge across
the river. The entire area of the castle measures 380 feet by 350, not including
the terrace. The oldest portion, perhaps built by Roger de Poictou, the original
builder of the castle, is the lower part of the tower or keep, a massive
building, eighty feet square, with walls ten feet thick. The upper portion
was rebuilt in the reign of Elizabeth. This tower is seventy feet high, and
eighty up to the turret called John o' Gaunt's Chair.
From thence a magnificent view is obtained over the surrounding
country, and especially towards the sea, where it extends to the Isle of
Man. The magnificent gateway tower is said to have been built by John of
Gaunt.
The castle is very spacious in plan, comprising a large courtyard
and several smaller courts. It is now fitted up as a county jail and court-house.
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