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HE Land's End is romantic and beautiful in the extreme,
and the prospect from it is one of indescribable magnificence. Tradition
says that it formerly was connected by land with the Scilly Islands. The sea
has carried away the ridge of rocks and point of land which is said to have been
the fabled Lyoness that now lies beneath the waves. All Cornwall is full of King
Arthur, who was born on and lies buried in its soil; and as we gaze along the
reef of rock that projects beyond the vast irregular bluffs, we think of
Tristram and Lancelot, of Galahad and Percival, and of their great leader. What
a charm hangs about the Arthurian romances! We are glad that they have been the
subject of a great poet's genius, for the stories are full of great deeds, of
noble ideas, of chivalrous feeling; a grand foundation for the character of a
nation.
But we must turn to the view from the Land's End. It is magnificent, as we have
said; two channels here commingling with the sea, which stretches far beyond
our sight, heaving and sparkling in the sunshine.
The billows roll in and break with thunderous sound at the base of the cliffs,
throwing up high jets of sparkling rainbowtinted spray in summer, and in winter
masses of angry water. Who that has not seen it can even by imagination picture
the Land's End in a storm? The scene is sublime, the mighty waves lashing the
cliffs in fury, and tossing their white foam nearly to the summits; and the
sound of the sea in wrath-it is like and yet not like thunder; it is the voice
of a terrible element, before which every other sound is faint. "The voice of
the great Creator, heard in tempest on the Cornish shore, is acknowledged with
profound awe."
The waves have made a great opening through the buttress of rock below where we
stand, from one side to the other. They rush foaming through the mighty hole,
and will some day separate the mass of rock from the land.
There is a curious lump of cliff here, named Dr. Johnson's Head, which really
does resemble in some degree the profile of the London sage.
The Land's End was the Bolerium of ancient geographers; it is an immense mass
of granite, sixty feet high. About a mile and a half from the shore rises the
tall Longships Lighthouse, built of granite by Mr. Smith, in 1796 - a most needful
building on such a coast as this, especially as Cornwall, a hundred years ago,
still had wreckers on the shore, who showed false lights and wrecked many a good
ship on the deadly rocks. Beyond, against the western sky, in a line with the
ridge of rocks, lie the Scilly Islands, indistinct and shadowy. To the north is
the bold curve
of Whitesand Bay; and Cape Cornwall, apparently extending even farther west than
the Land's End.
A Cornish poet has thus described this extreme point of England:-
Near the Land's End is Carnbrea Castle. It is
very small, scarcely sixty feet long by ten wide, and is built on a ledge of
rock; in some parts it is three storeys high, in others only one. Part oŁ this
castle is very ancient, and of rude architecture. Strange stories are told by
the country people of Carnbrea. They say that a mighty giant - Cornwall abounded
in giants - lies buried
beneath it, and that a block of granite indented into five nearly equal parts is
his hand, which, protruding through the surface, became fossilized. Carnbrea
Hill is said also to have been the scene of a combat between the devil and a
troop of saints. The demon was vanquished, and tumbled from the heights. In this
fight the missiles were rocky boulders loosened from their foundations. The hill
abounds in antiquities: there is an ancient came on it, some cairns, and
strange shapes in rough stone.
Round the coast near the Land's End are the following headlands and rocks:
Pednmen-dhu, i.e., the black headland - the rock at its base is called the Irish
Lady; Sennen Cove; and a village of the same name; Vell-an-Dreath, the mill in
the sand; Carn Towan, the sandy carn (towans are heaps of driven sand); Carn
Barges, the kite's cart; Carn Mellyn, the yellow carn; Polpry, the clay pit;
Carn Liskez, the carn of light, where the Druids were wont to kindle their
sacred fires; Carn Glos, the grey rock; Cape Cornwall,
which is 230 feet above the sea. Off Cape Cornwall (a grand object itself from
the ocean) are two dangerous rocks, called the Brisons, or Sisters, about
sixty-five feet high. Here is a submarine mine called Little Bounds; and inland,
about a mile to the north-east, is the famous Botallack mine.
This extraordinary mine is 1,050 feet deep, and some of the galleries extend
1.200 feet and more under the bed of the ocean. The roar of the sea overhead in
this mine is so terrific that even the miners are at times terrified, and escape
as quickly as possible to the land. The descent can only be made twice a day-at
7 a.m. and 2 p.m.
When you cross the brook which divides St. Leaven from Sennen, you are on the
Treville estates.
Tradition says that William the Norman gave this estate to his wine-taster, a
relative of the ancient Counts of Treville, who named his estate after himself.
The race is, we believe, now extinct. A peculiar appearance always foreboded the
death of a Vingoe. Above the deep caverns in the Treville cliff rises a cairn,
from which, whenever a member of the family was about to die, chains of fire
were seen ascending and descending, accompanied by loud and terrible noises.
These tokens, it is said, have not been heard since the last male heir died a
violent death.
There is another Cornish traditionary story of Sir John Arundell, who dwelt on
the north coast of Cornwall, at a place called Efford, on the coast near
Stratton. He was a very honourable, excellent man, and a just magistrate. One
day a wild shepherd, who professed to possess supernatural powers and to be a
seer, was brought before him for having in some way broken the law; this man
also possessed a dangerous influence over the people, and Sir John committed him
to prison for a short time. On his release, at the expiration of his term, he
repeatedly waylaid the knight, and looking threateningly at him, muttered,-
Arundell was not above the superstitions of the age. He also believed that the
seer might fulfil his own prophecy by murdering him. He therefore removed from
Efford, which was close to the sands, and went to Trerice, where he lived for
some years, and saw nothing of his old enemy.
But Richard de Vere, Earl of Oxford, seized St. Michael's Mount. Sir John
Arundell was at the time sheriff of Cornwall, and he at once gathered together
his own retainers and a large body of volunteers, and attacked the Lancastrians.
The retainers of Arundell were encamped on the sands by Alarazion. The followers
of the Earl of Oxford one day made a sally from the castle, rushed on the
sheriff's men, and in the fight Arundell received his death-wound. " Although he
had left Efford to counteract the will of fate, the prophecy was fulfilled; and
in his dying moments, it is said, his old enemy appeared, singing joyously:-
For the above incidents, and for some other legendary stories, we are indebted
to Mr. Hunt, who collected and published them in his " Popular Romances of the
West of England." From these and from other sources we have also learned from
what the rock called the "the Irish Lady," near Pedn-men-dhu (the headland of
Biack Rock), takes its name. It is a pathetic story. In a terrible storm an
Irish vessel was one night wrecked on this rock. Only one of her passengers-none
of the crew-escaped; and this was a lady, who was seen the next morning sitting
on the top of the rock. The fishermen would have been rejoiced to rescue her,
had it been possible; but it was not The wind and waves rendered the rock
inaccessible while the storm lasted, and it continued for two days and nights.
When at last it ceased, the lady had disappeared she had probably fainted from
exhaustion, and had been washed away by the waves. What her feelings must have
been, sitting
there in sight of land, and of human beings powerless to help her, we can only
dimly imagine. Long afterwards the fishers of the Land's End used to declare
that they saw her seated on the rock, and heard her wailing cry, whenever the
storm was at its height.
Sir Humphrey Davy wrote a poem on this tragical occurrence.
At low water there is to be seen off the Land's End a ridge of dangerous rocks,
against which the Atlantic, the English, and St. George's Channels beat in fury.
One of these rocks is still called the Armed Knight, because it once had on its
summit an iron spike, which was thrown down in a tempest in 1647, and the rock
was broken by it into three pieces. No one could explain how the spike came to
be placed on such a spot.
The fine rocks of Tol-Pedn-Penwith have on the top of them a stone, which is
called "The Chair." Here it is said a famous witch and wrecker named Madge
Figgy used to sit and practise her magic arts to raise storms and wreck vessels.
That she caused several wrecks by the display of false and misleading lights,
there is no doubt.
There is scarcely a spot in Cornwall, in fact, that is not haunted by some old
memory, ghostly or magical; and this is in a great measure the case-with some
differencesall over England. The history, traditions, and poetical fancies of
the people are found everywhere connected with the land, as the preceding pages
have shown; but in no part of it have romance and tradition so firmly bound
their fetters on the soil as at the Land's End.
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